I took a trip last week to Bauman's, a traditional apple butter business run by a husband and wife near Kutztown. We dropped 10 mixed bushels of apples off two weeks prior and received the rich brown butter jarred in return. Apple butter does not contain butter; it is made simply, crushing the apples and cooking them until they are reduced to the consistency of butter. Its tart-sweet flavor lends itself well to a meat marinade or a breakfast topping for toast or oats. I also make my own vegan, gluten-free baked goods and I find that adding a couple tablespoons to my flour and oil mixtures helps combine the baked goods for a better consistency.
After squeezing the truck into a parking space, the
processing building takes up a small acre lot in between houses and a narrow lane,
I unloaded the boxes into the truck and introduced myself to Mr. Bauman,
"Harvey," he said. If it had been a younger person I might have paid
and left, but the older generations approve of small talk. The weather was the
main subject; spring is variable, the winter was hard, but the crops will pull
through, they usually do. Then he asked, "So you're working on the farm,
did you go to college?" Tentatively, "Yes," I said, "I went
to college for communication and got my masters in development communication.
I'm working on the farm, helping with the retail side, but also learning more
about the outdoor work involved in the fruit." And with a smile that
couldn't lift the corner creases of his hurt eyes Harvey said, "That's
nice, my children decided not to continue the family business." Where
could I go with that? I think that any family business suffers some degree of
hurt when the next generation fails to continue their legacy, but there is a
special kind of sadness that I've seen and read about for farmers. Maybe
because, for most farmers, work is more than an occupation, it is one's blood
and bone, blessing and curse. There's a reason most farmers as they age, look
like the land they tend to; like a geologic natural progression, the sun, the earth,
the wind and the rain work away at a farmer's solid form. Man starts out fine
skinned and pale and ends looking more like an obsidian arrowhead than a
polished marble bust, polished through work rather than refinement.
It's not just farming that's threatened; any skilled trade that
takes time to learn is perceived as obsolete. I say perceived, because like the bumper stickers say, "No Farmers,
No Food." Not only do we need farmers, and other skilled trades, I would
argue that there is a growing trend amongst the younger generations for these
products and eagerness to learn these skills. Our reliance on large commercial
agriculture owned by a few big names isn't what I mean by farmers. The younger
generation in this farming trend doesn't follow the traditional model of taking
on their parents work, as it used to be done in the early 1900's, rather they
often arrive at this line of work because of personal convictions or exposure
through traveling, for example, (WWOOF) World Wide Opportunities on Organic
Farms. Popularity and interest in CSA's, Community Supported Agriculture, where
one pays a certain amount upfront and gets a fair share of whatever crops the
farmer harvests that season, are another way that we can see local resurgence
in small-scale farms. Organic is another buzzword that hit the mainstream media
and has been taken up by many new young farmers with an interest in integrated
often, non-profit driven farming. You can find them at the local farmer's
market with their Michael Pollan books, hipster attire and vegetarian inclinations.
I kid. But by far, there are less farmers in the United States then there ever
have been since it was conquered by our forefather immigrants, not settled as
it was land taken by force.
I can't deny the importance of the work farmers do but the
question I wanted to ask Harvey, was, "Is a legacy more important than
your kid's happiness?" People tell their kids, you can be anything you
want to be, but what most mean is, Do something that makes us look good so we
can brag about you, Carry on my legacy because why else have I put in all this
effort for if not for your stability? The message is not usually so clear-cut,
at least in white suburbia, normally it's disguised in good intentions. Truly,
in contrast I picture an image of Buddhist monks, living symbols of non-attachment,
and through ritual remind themselves of this non-attachment. For example in
their works of sand art, huge mandalas made from painstakingly placed grains of
sand laid in whirling precise patterns, which, upon completion, are swept away
by the own artisans hands. Why? All that effort for something so beautiful, and
they intentionally don't keep it. Then again, monks don't have kids, so this
comparison may be unfair.
For me, I feel a physical pain when I am asked this question
of carrying on the farm. My parents have spent 30 plus years growing this farm,
but I have spent 28 of them here too; I don't have the same skilled knowledge
and experience, but the farm has always been a responsibility that I've felt
tied to. I can sympathize with both parties, the grown child who feels guilt
from parents, and the parents who can't imagine a life on the farm without
their children. I see both and the only happy message I can pull from it, is
that we all die. HA. We all have a choice to leave our mark in the world
whether we choose to pour our efforts into careers, children, charities, but
for each and every one of us, that is our choice. Maybe that's optimistic, we
don't always have a choice about the things that happen to us, but we have a
choice as Bob Marley so wisely wailed, "Emancipate yourself from mental slavery, none but ourselves can free our minds."
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